Before starting a summer of working as an intern in Copenhagen, it was time to go home. So I now find myself in the lazy village of Strandby, with some 200 residents, not 10 days after I flew out of Hong Kong. Needless to say nothing much happens here, but yesterday was an exception: one of the four quarterly "community dinners".
Denmark has a history of cooperation dating back to the 18th century, following the abolishment of the serfdom-like institution of "stavnsbånd". Most towns were united around a church, a town hall, and a "forsamlingshus" - literally a "gathering house". These were buildings where community matters could be discussed, where feasts and festivals took place, and which could be rented for personal use. The buildings today have a board and some limited funds, and survive in modern society by being rented out to wedding receptions, confirmations, art exhibitions, or being used for own initiatives such as the community dinner.
Having now spent around 2 years in metropolitan society, I sincerely enjoy the charm of rural country life. The concept's are simple; yesterday everybody paid a registration fee for the food, while drinks were purchased on the spot, and the focus is on strengthening the community rather than harvesting a large profit. Everybody gets greeted with a handshake before one sits down, and a song or two get sung before the food is served. The feeling that the concept is slightly old-fashioned gets exacerbated by an average age well in excess of 50, and sights of old men poking at broccoli and frowningly ask their wife what the hell that is, or the heart-warming gruff laughter accompanying strong black coffee and home-baked biscuits, provide subtle reminders of fond memories - just like visiting one's grandmother.
Almost 60 people filled the forsamlingshus during yesterdays event. My parents knew everybody in the room, perhaps not equally personally, but they knew who they were and what they did. The bond between neighbours in these rural communities seem to be one of the key factors in their survival. Like the Chinese concept of guanxi, the community is strengthened through reciprocal exchange of favours, and the community acts like close family with strong bonds of trust and a sense of belonging. A lot of young people, myself included, seek out larger cities with the possibility of school, work and adventure, but young families and people close to retirement return to the countryside for its tranquillity, security and community.
And then there is the nature. Strolling home at 9 PM, with setting sun filling the clear blue sky with orange and red hues, I smiled at the delights of the Danish countryside, but rural life is not for me. Not yet at least.
torsdag den 31. maj 2012
søndag den 27. maj 2012
School-related blogs
As part of the grade from my Issues in Asian Business course, I have to write a blog post about each of our seven visits. "No need to worry, only 250 words or so," was the remark when people groaned in response. But why the annoyance?
Doing the maths, a grade based on 7 short texts essentially paraphrasing what we were told at the visits is hardly too much to ask of top undergraduate students. And perhaps this is the point. When grading on a curve, how do you distinguish yourself from other bright people in so few words? With the blog-format, any previous notion of what constitutes good writing goes out the window. We even have to comment on other's blogs (also a part of the grade). The whole exercise seems retarded, and I have no clue what I can learn from this.
Unless...
I often toy with the idea that my professors are so intellectually superior we just cannot perceive it: They just took 45 of the most grade-competitive people in undergraduate business and gave them a task which has no obvious correct solution. Add into the mix that people can criticize what you say (and get points for doing it), but you can appear overly aggressive in ridiculing others, they essentially created a game which could breed alliances, deceit and paranoia. They then made the deadline June 10th so everybody can get caught up in the uncertainty for over 2 weeks. Finally, they post the whole thing online, sit back, and watch the fireworks begin.
Well played Sir.
To those who want to watch (or just really like Singaporean companies), here is the link: http://globestudytrip2012.blogspot.com/
Doing the maths, a grade based on 7 short texts essentially paraphrasing what we were told at the visits is hardly too much to ask of top undergraduate students. And perhaps this is the point. When grading on a curve, how do you distinguish yourself from other bright people in so few words? With the blog-format, any previous notion of what constitutes good writing goes out the window. We even have to comment on other's blogs (also a part of the grade). The whole exercise seems retarded, and I have no clue what I can learn from this.
Unless...
I often toy with the idea that my professors are so intellectually superior we just cannot perceive it: They just took 45 of the most grade-competitive people in undergraduate business and gave them a task which has no obvious correct solution. Add into the mix that people can criticize what you say (and get points for doing it), but you can appear overly aggressive in ridiculing others, they essentially created a game which could breed alliances, deceit and paranoia. They then made the deadline June 10th so everybody can get caught up in the uncertainty for over 2 weeks. Finally, they post the whole thing online, sit back, and watch the fireworks begin.
Well played Sir.
To those who want to watch (or just really like Singaporean companies), here is the link: http://globestudytrip2012.blogspot.com/
lørdag den 26. maj 2012
World Wonders
For some reason, every time we travelled somewhere in Asia, we GLOBE students would embark on an epic discussion of the meaning and members of the Wonders of the World. It is time to settle this!
The term "Wonders of the World" originally refers to a list of seven major sights in Greek antiquity. Following the conquest of Alexander the Great, the Macedonian Greek empire briefly stretched from Greece to India, and included Egypt in the south. Although it crumbled with his death in 323 BC, Hellenistic travellers regarded this area as their world, and subsequently conducted their list, heavily biased, from here. Although accounts differ slightly, the seven Wonders of the Ancient World are: the Pyramids at Giza, the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Colossus at Rhodes, the Lighthouse at Alexandria, the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, and the Statue of Zeus at Olympia. So far so good.
Today, none but the Pyramids remain. In fact, all Wonders only stood at the same time for a period of 54 years following the Colossus' destruction from an earthquake in 226 BC (hence the differing accounts). It was for this reason that New7Wonders of the World started a vote from 200 existing monuments in 2001 to find seven Wonders of the modern world. The event was highly criticized, not least because nothing prevented multiple voting, and many saw the stunt for pure economic reasons. For good measure, the winners are: Chichen Itza in Mexico, Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, the Colosseum in Rome, the Great Wall of China, Machu Picchu in Peru, Petra in Jordan, and the Taj Mahal in India. The last remaining ancient Wonder, the Pyramids, received a honorary site. But now the trouble starts.
First of all, what is a Wonder? The dictionary definition is "a monumental human creation regarded with awe, especially one of seven monuments of the ancient world". Therefore, monuments such as Acropolis or Angkor Wat could be termed a "Wonder", but they are not Wonders of the World and inferior to the original seven when using THIS term. They can certainly be grander, more magnificent or greater feats of human creation (if one deems them to be), but they are not Wonders of the World.
Second, do the New7Wonders of the World receive equal status as World Wonders with the ancient list? No! Although many of the winners of the quasi-vote are enormous feats of human engineering, art and labour, the bias due to mainstream branding and popularity obscures the results. Placing the Pyramids at Giza in the same category as Christ the Redeemer, built between 1922 and 1931, is a mockery of the skill and effort of the ancient Egyptians.
Third, on what grounds is something considered a Wonder? This is slightly more tricky. Taking the ancient Wonders as a reference, there are feats of art, wealth, size, engineering, and science, while it is important to remember the time they were constructed. Comparing tombs to loved ones, the Taj Mahal, completed in 1653, is a truly amazing work of construction, art and architecture, but one must take the time period into account when comparing it to the then 45 meter tall Mausoleum, completed in 350 BC. The Great Wall of China took ages to build, with longer stretches and fortifications added over the years, but so did the Pyramids. Which feat is more impressive is impossible to say.
The source of arguments has always arisen from the desire to appreciate human ability. Angkor Wat, the Great Wall, the Leshan Giant Buddha; all have the ability to inspire, to awe, and to remember the greatness of our heritage. Why should the Pyramids be allowed the term Wonder and not the Great Wall? Perhaps it should, but the term "Wonder" is a reference to the Ancient Greeks and their accomplishments. They gave Western Europe the foundation of modern society, not truly recognized until the Renaissance, and were at their time the greatest nation on the planet, the forefront of human civilization. We cannot comprehend the awe which the Hanging Gardens must have inspired on Alexander as he conquered the desert city in 331 BC, and it is this awe which, in my opinion, validates the term "Wonder". Just as WWI will always be referred to as "The Great War", it must be in relative terms that we describe something as a "Wonder". Chichen Itza and Machu Picchu are impressive human accomplishments, but being built from 700 AD and 1450 AD respectively, they fade when compared to the Pyramids at Giza, constructed in 2500 BC.
Finally, what about the United States, which hosts GLOBE in the fall - it had the Statue of Liberty as a finalist in the New7Wonders competition. America has many great buildings and inspiring history, but more for symbolic reasons, and greatly amplified by Americas significance to the world today. It has many important and symbolic places, such as the Statue of Liberty, Golden Gate Bridge, Wall Street, Empire State Building, etc, but it does not, in any way, have a so-called eighth Wonder. One less point for discussion.
The term "Wonders of the World" originally refers to a list of seven major sights in Greek antiquity. Following the conquest of Alexander the Great, the Macedonian Greek empire briefly stretched from Greece to India, and included Egypt in the south. Although it crumbled with his death in 323 BC, Hellenistic travellers regarded this area as their world, and subsequently conducted their list, heavily biased, from here. Although accounts differ slightly, the seven Wonders of the Ancient World are: the Pyramids at Giza, the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Colossus at Rhodes, the Lighthouse at Alexandria, the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, and the Statue of Zeus at Olympia. So far so good.
Today, none but the Pyramids remain. In fact, all Wonders only stood at the same time for a period of 54 years following the Colossus' destruction from an earthquake in 226 BC (hence the differing accounts). It was for this reason that New7Wonders of the World started a vote from 200 existing monuments in 2001 to find seven Wonders of the modern world. The event was highly criticized, not least because nothing prevented multiple voting, and many saw the stunt for pure economic reasons. For good measure, the winners are: Chichen Itza in Mexico, Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, the Colosseum in Rome, the Great Wall of China, Machu Picchu in Peru, Petra in Jordan, and the Taj Mahal in India. The last remaining ancient Wonder, the Pyramids, received a honorary site. But now the trouble starts.
First of all, what is a Wonder? The dictionary definition is "a monumental human creation regarded with awe, especially one of seven monuments of the ancient world". Therefore, monuments such as Acropolis or Angkor Wat could be termed a "Wonder", but they are not Wonders of the World and inferior to the original seven when using THIS term. They can certainly be grander, more magnificent or greater feats of human creation (if one deems them to be), but they are not Wonders of the World.
Second, do the New7Wonders of the World receive equal status as World Wonders with the ancient list? No! Although many of the winners of the quasi-vote are enormous feats of human engineering, art and labour, the bias due to mainstream branding and popularity obscures the results. Placing the Pyramids at Giza in the same category as Christ the Redeemer, built between 1922 and 1931, is a mockery of the skill and effort of the ancient Egyptians.
Third, on what grounds is something considered a Wonder? This is slightly more tricky. Taking the ancient Wonders as a reference, there are feats of art, wealth, size, engineering, and science, while it is important to remember the time they were constructed. Comparing tombs to loved ones, the Taj Mahal, completed in 1653, is a truly amazing work of construction, art and architecture, but one must take the time period into account when comparing it to the then 45 meter tall Mausoleum, completed in 350 BC. The Great Wall of China took ages to build, with longer stretches and fortifications added over the years, but so did the Pyramids. Which feat is more impressive is impossible to say.
The source of arguments has always arisen from the desire to appreciate human ability. Angkor Wat, the Great Wall, the Leshan Giant Buddha; all have the ability to inspire, to awe, and to remember the greatness of our heritage. Why should the Pyramids be allowed the term Wonder and not the Great Wall? Perhaps it should, but the term "Wonder" is a reference to the Ancient Greeks and their accomplishments. They gave Western Europe the foundation of modern society, not truly recognized until the Renaissance, and were at their time the greatest nation on the planet, the forefront of human civilization. We cannot comprehend the awe which the Hanging Gardens must have inspired on Alexander as he conquered the desert city in 331 BC, and it is this awe which, in my opinion, validates the term "Wonder". Just as WWI will always be referred to as "The Great War", it must be in relative terms that we describe something as a "Wonder". Chichen Itza and Machu Picchu are impressive human accomplishments, but being built from 700 AD and 1450 AD respectively, they fade when compared to the Pyramids at Giza, constructed in 2500 BC.
Finally, what about the United States, which hosts GLOBE in the fall - it had the Statue of Liberty as a finalist in the New7Wonders competition. America has many great buildings and inspiring history, but more for symbolic reasons, and greatly amplified by Americas significance to the world today. It has many important and symbolic places, such as the Statue of Liberty, Golden Gate Bridge, Wall Street, Empire State Building, etc, but it does not, in any way, have a so-called eighth Wonder. One less point for discussion.
Books
Spending all my time during the semester submerged in books and articles, additional reading outside my curriculum doesn't strike me as a way to relax. Holidays, however, are redemption time!
I have just finished two great books in the last week and a half. The first, "Consolations of Philosophy", tries to tie human hardship together with a philosophy which can provide consolation. Using philosophies of the likes of Socrates, Epicurus, Michel de Montaigne, John Stuart Mill, Arthur Schopenhauer, and Nietzsche, the book is a quick glance at the evolution and realm of philosophy, written in a very accessible fashion. It is a great way for first-time readers of philosophy to get acquainted with some of the major works in this field, as well as a change of focus for more experienced readers.
The second, "Escape from Camp 14", is the story of Shin Dong-hyuk, the only known person born in a North Korean political prison to have escaped. Based on interviews with Shin and other escapees, the author Blaine Harden (who writes for the Washington Post and the New York Times and has become a somewhat specialist on political implosion) couples his story with an account of the political environment in North East Asia and North Korea at the time. The book describes the life of a human being born into a society where snitching is rewarded with extra food, where beatings, 15-hour days of forced work, and public executions are the norm. It depicts an individual having no conscience, no concept of love, trust, merit, faith, hope, or freedom, and has no knowledge of the outside world in which he lives. Shin grew up chronically hungry, and the story from a fellow prisoner about the joys of roasted meat, as well as an inconceivable amount of fortune and endurance, ultimately led to escape and 2 year trek across North Korea into China.
I tend to prefer factional books to fiction, allowing me to study subjects such as history and politics which develop me a person. My brother often shakes his head and thrusts massive novels or epics into my lap in his quest to save my soul from becoming homo economicus. I do enjoy novels, but having spent most of my childhood reading them, I am now becoming fond of books which challenge me and teach me something, rather than fantasize myself into an imaginary world. Thus my next book, "Thinking, fast and slow" by economics Nobel laureate Daniel Kahneman, on the psychology of of human decision-making and the influence of intuition and biases on our thoughts and behaviour, will be a treat. Sorry.
I have just finished two great books in the last week and a half. The first, "Consolations of Philosophy", tries to tie human hardship together with a philosophy which can provide consolation. Using philosophies of the likes of Socrates, Epicurus, Michel de Montaigne, John Stuart Mill, Arthur Schopenhauer, and Nietzsche, the book is a quick glance at the evolution and realm of philosophy, written in a very accessible fashion. It is a great way for first-time readers of philosophy to get acquainted with some of the major works in this field, as well as a change of focus for more experienced readers.
The second, "Escape from Camp 14", is the story of Shin Dong-hyuk, the only known person born in a North Korean political prison to have escaped. Based on interviews with Shin and other escapees, the author Blaine Harden (who writes for the Washington Post and the New York Times and has become a somewhat specialist on political implosion) couples his story with an account of the political environment in North East Asia and North Korea at the time. The book describes the life of a human being born into a society where snitching is rewarded with extra food, where beatings, 15-hour days of forced work, and public executions are the norm. It depicts an individual having no conscience, no concept of love, trust, merit, faith, hope, or freedom, and has no knowledge of the outside world in which he lives. Shin grew up chronically hungry, and the story from a fellow prisoner about the joys of roasted meat, as well as an inconceivable amount of fortune and endurance, ultimately led to escape and 2 year trek across North Korea into China.
I tend to prefer factional books to fiction, allowing me to study subjects such as history and politics which develop me a person. My brother often shakes his head and thrusts massive novels or epics into my lap in his quest to save my soul from becoming homo economicus. I do enjoy novels, but having spent most of my childhood reading them, I am now becoming fond of books which challenge me and teach me something, rather than fantasize myself into an imaginary world. Thus my next book, "Thinking, fast and slow" by economics Nobel laureate Daniel Kahneman, on the psychology of of human decision-making and the influence of intuition and biases on our thoughts and behaviour, will be a treat. Sorry.
onsdag den 23. maj 2012
Singapore
After exams, the GLOBE programme had a 6 day study trip to Singapore as part of the course "Issues in Asian Business". Getting back on the 19th, I packed up my stuff and flew back to Denmark, now quietly residing in Copenhagen trying to finish my academic requirements.
The idea of the study trip was to have corporate visits during a morning and an afternoon session each day, except for the final day which we had off. We students would actively participate with questions and comments, facilitating a transfer of first-hand information regarding how business is done in Asia. Reality turned out, as expected, to be somewhat different. Seeing as it was the last week the GLOBE students were gathered before heading off on their summer break, the trip became more of a social event, with late nights, little sleep, and unenthusiastic visits. It doesn't help that our grading will be based on a blog we have to write about each corporate visit (I almost feel sorry for the guy who will have to read 45 blog posts on the intricacies of Singapore Post) and a short group paper on the broadest subject possible: "What have you learnt about business in Asia". Since none of this is due till June 10th, no-one did any mentionable amount of work except taking a few notes at the visits, waiting to be let loose on the town.
Singapore is colloquially known as a "fine" city due to its harsh legal system and constant surveillance. Often being compared to Hong Kong, it is better planned, cleaner, less polluted, and seemingly more quite, although I personally enjoy the buzz and chaos which surrounds the latter. Although Singapore is located between Indonesia and Malaysia, around 75 % of the population are of Chinese descent. The city's focus on finance and high-tech industries, its vibrant expat community, and desire for luxury, further enhances the similarities between the two.
Apart from visits, which were generally interesting (such as Dell, DBS, U.S - Singapore foreign relations, and Norden), I spent my time roaming the city. Bars and nightlife around Clarke Quay was reserved for after 10 PM, so day-time excursions on my day off included the Museum of Asian Cultures, the Marina Bay, lunch in Chinatown, and a visit to the Urban Development Board. The final place is highly recommendable, with an interesting overview of Singapore's rapid growth, as well as its planned development in the future, most of which has already been sold. The botanic gardens, as well as the night safari, were also top class. But with the a constant 85% humidity and +30 degrees, I am more than happy to be back home once more.
The idea of the study trip was to have corporate visits during a morning and an afternoon session each day, except for the final day which we had off. We students would actively participate with questions and comments, facilitating a transfer of first-hand information regarding how business is done in Asia. Reality turned out, as expected, to be somewhat different. Seeing as it was the last week the GLOBE students were gathered before heading off on their summer break, the trip became more of a social event, with late nights, little sleep, and unenthusiastic visits. It doesn't help that our grading will be based on a blog we have to write about each corporate visit (I almost feel sorry for the guy who will have to read 45 blog posts on the intricacies of Singapore Post) and a short group paper on the broadest subject possible: "What have you learnt about business in Asia". Since none of this is due till June 10th, no-one did any mentionable amount of work except taking a few notes at the visits, waiting to be let loose on the town.
Singapore is colloquially known as a "fine" city due to its harsh legal system and constant surveillance. Often being compared to Hong Kong, it is better planned, cleaner, less polluted, and seemingly more quite, although I personally enjoy the buzz and chaos which surrounds the latter. Although Singapore is located between Indonesia and Malaysia, around 75 % of the population are of Chinese descent. The city's focus on finance and high-tech industries, its vibrant expat community, and desire for luxury, further enhances the similarities between the two.
Apart from visits, which were generally interesting (such as Dell, DBS, U.S - Singapore foreign relations, and Norden), I spent my time roaming the city. Bars and nightlife around Clarke Quay was reserved for after 10 PM, so day-time excursions on my day off included the Museum of Asian Cultures, the Marina Bay, lunch in Chinatown, and a visit to the Urban Development Board. The final place is highly recommendable, with an interesting overview of Singapore's rapid growth, as well as its planned development in the future, most of which has already been sold. The botanic gardens, as well as the night safari, were also top class. But with the a constant 85% humidity and +30 degrees, I am more than happy to be back home once more.
mandag den 14. maj 2012
Macau
Before heading of to Singapore on this semester's only GLOBE study trip, after which I fly back home to Denmark, the previous weekend was to be my last in Hong Kong anno 2012. So after hitting up the last beach-visits and touring the few remaining unseen areas of down town Central and Kowloon, it was time for a memorable farewell - destination: Macau.
Macau is located about an hour west of Hong Kong by hydrofoil, and is China's other Special Administrative Region (with HK). Located between Guangdong Province to the north and the South China sea, the small peninsula of some 10 square km was originally inhabited by Chinese fishermen and became a port of trade before the Portuguese settled there permanently in 1557 to create the first European colony in China. The Dutch were unsuccessful in their attempted conquest of the colony in 1622, and up until the Opium Wars in mid-19th century, Portugal continued to pay tribute to China. Following the wars (mainly waged by Britain in response to the trade imbalance following the Canton System), the defeat of China, and the continuous flow of Portuguese to the colony, Portugal was granted sovereignty of Macau in 1887. During WWII, there was a brief protectorate of Macau by the Japanese, but it wasn't till the Carnation Revolution in Lisbon in 1974 (where the new government decided to relinquish all overseas possessions) that Macau received a large measure of autonomy. It gradually came to be regarded as Chinese territory, and the Chinese government assumed sovereignty in 1999.
Since then, Macau has prospered, mostly on tourism and hospitality services and not least its favourable gambling laws. The Macau peninsula is the original colony, but two new bridges connect it with the islands of Taipa and Coloane to the south. The varying colonizations are obvious, making the peninsula a quirky mixture of Mediterranean charm with pastel colours, wooden shutters and cobbled roads, as well as Chinese lanterns, huge neon signs, rice / noodle restaurants, and not least Asians (50% of tourists are Chinese, and 30% are from Hong Kong). Old Catholic churches, the ruins of a cathedral on the central hill, as well as the old forts, lie side by side with bustling shopping streets, rickshaws, and aggressive salesmen shouting in Mandarin.
Gambling is effectively Macau's raison d'etre. After the government broke the monopoly license of Stanley Ho and the Lisboa casino in 2002, a host of casinos moved in, and essentially turned Taipa into the Asian version of Las Vegas' Strip with names such as the Galaxy, the Sands, the Wynn, the Grand Lisboa (next to the still functioning original), the Hard Rock, the MGM Mirage, and not least the enormous Venetian (just to name a few). With them came luxury hotels, shopping, and entertainment, but gambling is still the centre of attention - gambling revenue quickly surpassed the Strip's, and now is estimated to be 5 times higher than its American counterpart.
We booked a suite at the Venetian for a night and decided to party rock-star style. Arriving in Macau at mid-day, lugging a suitcase full of speakers and a DJ turntable, we saw a couple of the sites, had hand-made noodles and the Portuguese egg-tarts for lunch, and checked in at 17:00. Emptying the suitcase, we took off to grab dinner in Taipa and to fill said suitcase with as much alcohol as possible, making sure to be back at the hotel for 21:00, when the 20-odd friend-group arrived. After a second round of buying drinks and setting up the music, it was socializing, drinking and gambling (for those with money to spend) until we checked out at 7 AM to catch the first ferry back to Hong Kong.
If there is one thing I'll remember from Macau, it is Baccarat. A card game of chance between the "player" and the "bank", somewhat resembling Blackjack to the untrained eye. Up to 8 players at the table, they bet on either the "player" (which is only a single pair of cards, not every player) or the "bank" winning. Either they lose their money, or they double it. As a student with limited funds, gambling never had my interest. However, strolling down to watch the high-stakes gamblers at 5:30 AM when most others were falling asleep, it was amazing to see the amount of money being won and lost in this high-speed game. Minimum bets were 4000 HKD, but 30-50.000 HKD bets were not uncommon. 10 seconds later it could be gone or doubled; no wonder it is addictive. It is said that one only leaves the casinos from being either economically broke or physically exhausted - we definitely fell into the latter.
Macau is located about an hour west of Hong Kong by hydrofoil, and is China's other Special Administrative Region (with HK). Located between Guangdong Province to the north and the South China sea, the small peninsula of some 10 square km was originally inhabited by Chinese fishermen and became a port of trade before the Portuguese settled there permanently in 1557 to create the first European colony in China. The Dutch were unsuccessful in their attempted conquest of the colony in 1622, and up until the Opium Wars in mid-19th century, Portugal continued to pay tribute to China. Following the wars (mainly waged by Britain in response to the trade imbalance following the Canton System), the defeat of China, and the continuous flow of Portuguese to the colony, Portugal was granted sovereignty of Macau in 1887. During WWII, there was a brief protectorate of Macau by the Japanese, but it wasn't till the Carnation Revolution in Lisbon in 1974 (where the new government decided to relinquish all overseas possessions) that Macau received a large measure of autonomy. It gradually came to be regarded as Chinese territory, and the Chinese government assumed sovereignty in 1999.
Since then, Macau has prospered, mostly on tourism and hospitality services and not least its favourable gambling laws. The Macau peninsula is the original colony, but two new bridges connect it with the islands of Taipa and Coloane to the south. The varying colonizations are obvious, making the peninsula a quirky mixture of Mediterranean charm with pastel colours, wooden shutters and cobbled roads, as well as Chinese lanterns, huge neon signs, rice / noodle restaurants, and not least Asians (50% of tourists are Chinese, and 30% are from Hong Kong). Old Catholic churches, the ruins of a cathedral on the central hill, as well as the old forts, lie side by side with bustling shopping streets, rickshaws, and aggressive salesmen shouting in Mandarin.
Gambling is effectively Macau's raison d'etre. After the government broke the monopoly license of Stanley Ho and the Lisboa casino in 2002, a host of casinos moved in, and essentially turned Taipa into the Asian version of Las Vegas' Strip with names such as the Galaxy, the Sands, the Wynn, the Grand Lisboa (next to the still functioning original), the Hard Rock, the MGM Mirage, and not least the enormous Venetian (just to name a few). With them came luxury hotels, shopping, and entertainment, but gambling is still the centre of attention - gambling revenue quickly surpassed the Strip's, and now is estimated to be 5 times higher than its American counterpart.
We booked a suite at the Venetian for a night and decided to party rock-star style. Arriving in Macau at mid-day, lugging a suitcase full of speakers and a DJ turntable, we saw a couple of the sites, had hand-made noodles and the Portuguese egg-tarts for lunch, and checked in at 17:00. Emptying the suitcase, we took off to grab dinner in Taipa and to fill said suitcase with as much alcohol as possible, making sure to be back at the hotel for 21:00, when the 20-odd friend-group arrived. After a second round of buying drinks and setting up the music, it was socializing, drinking and gambling (for those with money to spend) until we checked out at 7 AM to catch the first ferry back to Hong Kong.
If there is one thing I'll remember from Macau, it is Baccarat. A card game of chance between the "player" and the "bank", somewhat resembling Blackjack to the untrained eye. Up to 8 players at the table, they bet on either the "player" (which is only a single pair of cards, not every player) or the "bank" winning. Either they lose their money, or they double it. As a student with limited funds, gambling never had my interest. However, strolling down to watch the high-stakes gamblers at 5:30 AM when most others were falling asleep, it was amazing to see the amount of money being won and lost in this high-speed game. Minimum bets were 4000 HKD, but 30-50.000 HKD bets were not uncommon. 10 seconds later it could be gone or doubled; no wonder it is addictive. It is said that one only leaves the casinos from being either economically broke or physically exhausted - we definitely fell into the latter.
onsdag den 9. maj 2012
CUHK administration
With exams over and study-trips / travels looming in the horizon, this week is actually my last one in Hong Kong - at least this time around. That calls for beaches, swimming, non-factional reading and general exam-recovery, but instead I have been forced to deal with annoying bureaucracy from the school administration. Here are a few examples:
First of all, the library. I have borrowed 3 books from the library over the past 5 months, and since mid-April my account has been empty. In Denmark, if you have taken care of that yourself, nothing happens; potential bills get sent to you with costly interest rates. Here, however, it seems imperative that I print out a form stating that I will not borrow any more books and settle my outstanding debts, fill it out, sign it, and hand it in to the main library on the other side of campus. Failure to do this will result in me not receiving my transcript.
Second, my economist didn't arrive this week. Since it has, without exception, arrived latest every Monday, I was slightly irritated that it wasn't there Wednesday. Normally the mail gets distributed to students' pigeon holes, but since it wasn't in mine, I inquired at the front desk if there might be a place where the mail gets delivered before it is sorted, and if my magazine might be lying there. The guys raised his hand, waved it at me, and said that when mail comes they put it in the pigeon holes. I nodded, and proceeded to repeat my story, but he cut me off and, vigorously waving his hand, stated that when mail comes it gets put in the pigeon holes (as if it is some infallible law of nature). I tried to hint that there could be human error involved, but he kept repeating his sentence and flailing his hand at me, so I frustratedly gave up and walked out - without said economist.
This behaviour is not uncommon - most of the time the employees just blurt out memorized phrases which adhere to the rules. My friend left his umbrella in the cantine, and as he left they were closing. He remembered 2 minutes after leaving, so headed back, only to discover that they had locked the front door. He then waved to the man inside, and started saying: "I left my umbrella in the cantine...", upon which the man waved his hand at him and said "Cantine closed!". My friend tried to explain, pointing and gesturing, but the man simply waved his hand and, muttering "closed", wandered of into the kitchen.
In a society where so much is centralized, it makes sense to have employees do what they are told. It is in no way their fault; the administration which makes the rules is to blame. Unfortunately, this entity appears non-existent, and therefore there is nothing else to do but accept these annoyances.
The worst one by far (including the toilet paper incident) is when my room mate accidentally locked me out. I was on the balcony, so he locked the door when my keys were on my desk. Upon realization, I skip down to the office two floors below and ask them if they could open up for me. To my horror I have to display my ID card (naturally on my desk, which incurs a lot of annoyance and frowns from the 4 ladies basking idly in the air-conditioned room) and fill out two (!) forms; a log book of some kind, as well as a letter of payment - it turns out I have to pay 5 HKD for their services.
First of all, the library. I have borrowed 3 books from the library over the past 5 months, and since mid-April my account has been empty. In Denmark, if you have taken care of that yourself, nothing happens; potential bills get sent to you with costly interest rates. Here, however, it seems imperative that I print out a form stating that I will not borrow any more books and settle my outstanding debts, fill it out, sign it, and hand it in to the main library on the other side of campus. Failure to do this will result in me not receiving my transcript.
Second, my economist didn't arrive this week. Since it has, without exception, arrived latest every Monday, I was slightly irritated that it wasn't there Wednesday. Normally the mail gets distributed to students' pigeon holes, but since it wasn't in mine, I inquired at the front desk if there might be a place where the mail gets delivered before it is sorted, and if my magazine might be lying there. The guys raised his hand, waved it at me, and said that when mail comes they put it in the pigeon holes. I nodded, and proceeded to repeat my story, but he cut me off and, vigorously waving his hand, stated that when mail comes it gets put in the pigeon holes (as if it is some infallible law of nature). I tried to hint that there could be human error involved, but he kept repeating his sentence and flailing his hand at me, so I frustratedly gave up and walked out - without said economist.
This behaviour is not uncommon - most of the time the employees just blurt out memorized phrases which adhere to the rules. My friend left his umbrella in the cantine, and as he left they were closing. He remembered 2 minutes after leaving, so headed back, only to discover that they had locked the front door. He then waved to the man inside, and started saying: "I left my umbrella in the cantine...", upon which the man waved his hand at him and said "Cantine closed!". My friend tried to explain, pointing and gesturing, but the man simply waved his hand and, muttering "closed", wandered of into the kitchen.
In a society where so much is centralized, it makes sense to have employees do what they are told. It is in no way their fault; the administration which makes the rules is to blame. Unfortunately, this entity appears non-existent, and therefore there is nothing else to do but accept these annoyances.
The worst one by far (including the toilet paper incident) is when my room mate accidentally locked me out. I was on the balcony, so he locked the door when my keys were on my desk. Upon realization, I skip down to the office two floors below and ask them if they could open up for me. To my horror I have to display my ID card (naturally on my desk, which incurs a lot of annoyance and frowns from the 4 ladies basking idly in the air-conditioned room) and fill out two (!) forms; a log book of some kind, as well as a letter of payment - it turns out I have to pay 5 HKD for their services.
lørdag den 5. maj 2012
Airline tickets
With the semester in Hong Kong nearing its end, it is high time to book a ticket back home. My reluctance to book earlier has been due to a preconceived idea of tying my travel plans to the outcome of my internship applications; hence if I didn't get an internship, I could stay longer in South East Asia, perhaps visit friends on the way back to Europe (say, in Mumbai), or even extend my travels to new locations. If I did get an internship, well then I would just fly directly there. But with no news from the Western front, and more school work due in June, I decided that it would be best going back to Denmark.
Booking intercontinental airline tickets some 3 weeks in advance is generally not considered a great idea. I flew out to Hong Kong with Finnair, via Helsinki, for a total travel time of around 15 hours. Having booked 3 months early, and travelling on a youth ticket, it cost me 3.125 DKK. The same ticket today, one-way, will cost +16.000 DKK.
Being a student and strapped for cash, I was simply looking for the cheapest option. Online comparison sites, such as momondo.com, are ingenious for comprehensive searches, and have frequently been used during my travels around Asia. Although the Asia market is more regulated and less open than the European one, prices have generally been similar. As a result, it looked like my indecision was going to have a pricey cost. Fortunately that was not the case. I booked my ticket back to Denmark on May 21st with Aeroflot, one stop via Moscow, with travel time around 15 hours. Price: 525 USD, or less than 3.000 DKK.
In the age of the internet, it is still incredible that such price discrepancies exist. The European aviation industry has gone from being a highly regulated, monopolistic market to an open, deregulated market. The increased European integration has resulted in increased competition; the former incumbents (known as flag-carriers due to their strong ties with national governments) are being challenged by a wave of lost cost carriers such as Ryanair. The incumbents would previously receive favourable spots at national airports, quasi-monopolistic markets, and international protection, in return for essentially doing the governments bidding, such as excessive hiring and corporate social responsibility. The flag carriers (such as British Airways, SAS, KLM, Lufthansa, etc) are still suffering from the rapid liberalization through the 90's with their ineffective cost structures, and are trying to retain customers by creating global alliances (such as STAR alliance) and by offering frequent flyer miles (which are essentially a switching cost). They also pride themselves with better service, greater convenience, and higher safety. Perhaps, but at a price that is over 5 times higher than a competitor? I think not.
Booking intercontinental airline tickets some 3 weeks in advance is generally not considered a great idea. I flew out to Hong Kong with Finnair, via Helsinki, for a total travel time of around 15 hours. Having booked 3 months early, and travelling on a youth ticket, it cost me 3.125 DKK. The same ticket today, one-way, will cost +16.000 DKK.
Being a student and strapped for cash, I was simply looking for the cheapest option. Online comparison sites, such as momondo.com, are ingenious for comprehensive searches, and have frequently been used during my travels around Asia. Although the Asia market is more regulated and less open than the European one, prices have generally been similar. As a result, it looked like my indecision was going to have a pricey cost. Fortunately that was not the case. I booked my ticket back to Denmark on May 21st with Aeroflot, one stop via Moscow, with travel time around 15 hours. Price: 525 USD, or less than 3.000 DKK.
In the age of the internet, it is still incredible that such price discrepancies exist. The European aviation industry has gone from being a highly regulated, monopolistic market to an open, deregulated market. The increased European integration has resulted in increased competition; the former incumbents (known as flag-carriers due to their strong ties with national governments) are being challenged by a wave of lost cost carriers such as Ryanair. The incumbents would previously receive favourable spots at national airports, quasi-monopolistic markets, and international protection, in return for essentially doing the governments bidding, such as excessive hiring and corporate social responsibility. The flag carriers (such as British Airways, SAS, KLM, Lufthansa, etc) are still suffering from the rapid liberalization through the 90's with their ineffective cost structures, and are trying to retain customers by creating global alliances (such as STAR alliance) and by offering frequent flyer miles (which are essentially a switching cost). They also pride themselves with better service, greater convenience, and higher safety. Perhaps, but at a price that is over 5 times higher than a competitor? I think not.
torsdag den 3. maj 2012
Tuk-tuk's
With dire infrastructure (not least in Cambodia), lower levels of disposable income, and a high population density in major cities such as Phnom Penh and Saigon, the favoured mode of transport is a motorbike. Not the big 250 cc bikes, but the 125cc ones which look like a scooter. In Cambodia, strap a rickshaw behind one and you have a tuk-tuk.
Tuk-tuks are the taxis of Cambodia, with four people being able to sit comfortably next to each other, 2 facing each way. Base rates are around one USD per person (the currency of Cambodia, the real, exchanges at 4000r to 1 USD, but ATM's give you dollars, and they are main currency), with a full-day hire costing around 15 USD. Passenger limits, times of day, and destinations are, of course, irrelevant to the driver, so if you want to fit 7 people into one tuk-tuk and take a 3 hour ride to a waterfall at 2 in the morning, they would happily oblige. The notable exception is at the temple complex of Angkor Wat, where the tourism has resulted in flat rates of 7 USD per person inside the complex. Haggling will get you a discount, but only if you offer future business to the drivers. Always arrange price up front, and always at at least half of the drivers starting quote. Expect to pay the amount agreed - they have no concept of 3 dollars for 2 hours = 1,5 dollars for 1 hour.
Tuk-tuk drivers are underground guides to Cambodia, and are sly, scamming, lazy and really friendly. After declining a drive, another guy drives up and, with a fat grin on his face, offers to drive me to my destination at half of what the previous guy was asking. They will happily wait for hours while you wander about your tourist attractions. Especially at Angkor, the colonies of tuk-tuk drivers with their shirts open, basking in the morning sun, is not far off from a herd of seals. They often have deals cut with restaurants, hostels, and motorbike rentals, with them getting a share for bringing customers, but it is all part of the game, so you just go with it. Some will scam you, others appear more genuine, but at the end of the day they are out to make a profit.
Using them for inside information could be misleading. If they don't know something, they'll just bullshit about it, and everything is answered with "yes", no matter what. To be fair, they will hook you up with anything you need: wandering the streets invites constant sales pitches of drivers offering tuk-tuk rides, marijuana, cocaine and codeine, not necessarily in that order.
If alone, like I was for the final couple of days, tuk-tuks will cost a couple of dollars at least. Better then to take the cheaper option of hopping on the back of a motorbike. Especially in motorcycle-crazy Saigon, one's adrenaline takes a spike, but these guys have bike handling skills most professionals would kill for. Instead, if you are +6 foot like me, sit back and enjoy the buzz and scenery from staring over the helmet of your 5'4" driver as you cruise through metropolitan South East Asia.
Tuk-tuks are the taxis of Cambodia, with four people being able to sit comfortably next to each other, 2 facing each way. Base rates are around one USD per person (the currency of Cambodia, the real, exchanges at 4000r to 1 USD, but ATM's give you dollars, and they are main currency), with a full-day hire costing around 15 USD. Passenger limits, times of day, and destinations are, of course, irrelevant to the driver, so if you want to fit 7 people into one tuk-tuk and take a 3 hour ride to a waterfall at 2 in the morning, they would happily oblige. The notable exception is at the temple complex of Angkor Wat, where the tourism has resulted in flat rates of 7 USD per person inside the complex. Haggling will get you a discount, but only if you offer future business to the drivers. Always arrange price up front, and always at at least half of the drivers starting quote. Expect to pay the amount agreed - they have no concept of 3 dollars for 2 hours = 1,5 dollars for 1 hour. Tuk-tuk drivers are underground guides to Cambodia, and are sly, scamming, lazy and really friendly. After declining a drive, another guy drives up and, with a fat grin on his face, offers to drive me to my destination at half of what the previous guy was asking. They will happily wait for hours while you wander about your tourist attractions. Especially at Angkor, the colonies of tuk-tuk drivers with their shirts open, basking in the morning sun, is not far off from a herd of seals. They often have deals cut with restaurants, hostels, and motorbike rentals, with them getting a share for bringing customers, but it is all part of the game, so you just go with it. Some will scam you, others appear more genuine, but at the end of the day they are out to make a profit.
Using them for inside information could be misleading. If they don't know something, they'll just bullshit about it, and everything is answered with "yes", no matter what. To be fair, they will hook you up with anything you need: wandering the streets invites constant sales pitches of drivers offering tuk-tuk rides, marijuana, cocaine and codeine, not necessarily in that order.
If alone, like I was for the final couple of days, tuk-tuks will cost a couple of dollars at least. Better then to take the cheaper option of hopping on the back of a motorbike. Especially in motorcycle-crazy Saigon, one's adrenaline takes a spike, but these guys have bike handling skills most professionals would kill for. Instead, if you are +6 foot like me, sit back and enjoy the buzz and scenery from staring over the helmet of your 5'4" driver as you cruise through metropolitan South East Asia.
onsdag den 2. maj 2012
Cambodia - a history
Although I am flying in and out of Ho Chi Minh City, Cambodia is where I spent most of my time. One often hears that Cambodia is how Vietnam was 20-30 years ago, and although its neighbour does have profound similarities, Cambodia's first impression is of greater poverty, higher inequality, more corruption, slower growth, fewer Western influences, and generally more set back in terms of development. To lay the foundation of my adventures, here follows a brief introduction to Cambodia:
Cambodia bears one of the most volatile histories in the world. Jayavarman II pronounced himself God King (Devaraja in Sanskrit), marking the beginning of the Angkorian period of the Khmer Empire. At the end of the 9th century, the new king established his capital at the Angkor site and began the process of building the city which today is popularly known as Angkor Wat (although this is only the name of a single temple there). From there the Khmer Empire ruled most of South-East Asia for some 500 years up until the 15th century, except for a 4 year period between 1177-1181, when the city was sacked, but subsequently recaptured. In 1431, wars with neighbouring kingdoms took its toll and the city was invaded once again, forcing the Khmer society to move south and relocate their capital there. The frail state of the Khmers resulted in numerous civil wars and struggles for power, and with the continuing rise of Thailand and Siam, Cambodia was relegated to a puppet state until they accepted a French protectorate in 1863, eventually bringing the state under French control and moving the capital to its current location at Phnom Penh.
Following WWII, the Cambodian king Norodom Sihanouk succeeded in receiving independence from the reluctant French in 1953. He abdicated 2 years year after, established his own political party and set up elections in 1955, and won all 92 seats. Although he claimed Cambodian neutrality in the increasing struggle between North and South Vietnam in the 1960's, domestic politics became increasingly polarized with each side being supported by either North Vietnam or South Vietnam / America. Sihanouk's attempt to appease both sides ended up alienating both, especially since he allowed Viet Cong bases to set up in Cambodia. When the right-leaning general Lon Nol deposed the former king in a coup in 1970, it plunged Cambodia into civil war.
Whether the United States actively assisted the coup is unclear, but with the Viet Cong now fearing for their bases in Cambodia and increasing their presence, America moved the war across the border. Frequent carpet bombings of suspected bases up until 1975 left an estimated 500.000 Cambodians dead. It was thus not difficult for the opposing Communist Party of Kampuchea (known as the Khmer Rouge) to utilize its propaganda machine to recruit locals to its cause, either by claiming to fight for an equal communist society, the ousted Sihanouk (who was now the royal leader after the death of his father, who took over after the abdication), or simply peace. As the American army felt the toll of the Vietnam war, the supply of ammunition and aid to Lon Nol diminished, and two weeks before Saigon was invaded, the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, captured the capital of Phnom Penh on April 17th, 1975.
This marked the beginning of one of the bloodiest genocides in human history. Starting immediately, the Khmer Rouge attempted to socially engineer a purely agrarian-based Communist society, completely self-sufficient, and without any hint of capitalism. People were driven from the city into the countryside and forced into slave labour in the fields. With the motto of "Better kill an innocent than let a guilty live", the regime killed thousands of intellectuals, political opponents, minorities, alleged traitors (most of whom were probably innocent), and anyone whom disobeyed the word of the party. Forced labour and famine from a lack of central planning know-how killed many from over-exhaustion and malnutrition, and increasing paranoia of the leaders resulted in scores more being executed for a number of arbitrary reasons, not least false confessions under extensive daily torture. The total number of dead is impossible to determine, but a conservative estimate is over 2 million from a population of less than 8 million. One in four Cambodians died at the hands of their countrymen over 3 years and 9 months before a Vietnamese blitzkrieg took Phnom Penh on January 7th, 1979.
Since then, Cambodia has attempted to rebuild its society. It has seen rapid economic growth, not least fuelled by tourism to the capital and to Siem Reap, the gateway to the Angkor temples, but these two bubbles do not fairly represent the country as a whole. The horrors of the past permeate the country, for example undiscovered minefields, but the Khmer's (who now constitute 90% of Cambodians) unbreakable spirit shines through via their friendliness, optimism and entrepreneurial spirit. A truly inspiring attitude to what, at first glance, seems an amazing place.
Cambodia bears one of the most volatile histories in the world. Jayavarman II pronounced himself God King (Devaraja in Sanskrit), marking the beginning of the Angkorian period of the Khmer Empire. At the end of the 9th century, the new king established his capital at the Angkor site and began the process of building the city which today is popularly known as Angkor Wat (although this is only the name of a single temple there). From there the Khmer Empire ruled most of South-East Asia for some 500 years up until the 15th century, except for a 4 year period between 1177-1181, when the city was sacked, but subsequently recaptured. In 1431, wars with neighbouring kingdoms took its toll and the city was invaded once again, forcing the Khmer society to move south and relocate their capital there. The frail state of the Khmers resulted in numerous civil wars and struggles for power, and with the continuing rise of Thailand and Siam, Cambodia was relegated to a puppet state until they accepted a French protectorate in 1863, eventually bringing the state under French control and moving the capital to its current location at Phnom Penh.
Following WWII, the Cambodian king Norodom Sihanouk succeeded in receiving independence from the reluctant French in 1953. He abdicated 2 years year after, established his own political party and set up elections in 1955, and won all 92 seats. Although he claimed Cambodian neutrality in the increasing struggle between North and South Vietnam in the 1960's, domestic politics became increasingly polarized with each side being supported by either North Vietnam or South Vietnam / America. Sihanouk's attempt to appease both sides ended up alienating both, especially since he allowed Viet Cong bases to set up in Cambodia. When the right-leaning general Lon Nol deposed the former king in a coup in 1970, it plunged Cambodia into civil war.
Whether the United States actively assisted the coup is unclear, but with the Viet Cong now fearing for their bases in Cambodia and increasing their presence, America moved the war across the border. Frequent carpet bombings of suspected bases up until 1975 left an estimated 500.000 Cambodians dead. It was thus not difficult for the opposing Communist Party of Kampuchea (known as the Khmer Rouge) to utilize its propaganda machine to recruit locals to its cause, either by claiming to fight for an equal communist society, the ousted Sihanouk (who was now the royal leader after the death of his father, who took over after the abdication), or simply peace. As the American army felt the toll of the Vietnam war, the supply of ammunition and aid to Lon Nol diminished, and two weeks before Saigon was invaded, the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, captured the capital of Phnom Penh on April 17th, 1975.
This marked the beginning of one of the bloodiest genocides in human history. Starting immediately, the Khmer Rouge attempted to socially engineer a purely agrarian-based Communist society, completely self-sufficient, and without any hint of capitalism. People were driven from the city into the countryside and forced into slave labour in the fields. With the motto of "Better kill an innocent than let a guilty live", the regime killed thousands of intellectuals, political opponents, minorities, alleged traitors (most of whom were probably innocent), and anyone whom disobeyed the word of the party. Forced labour and famine from a lack of central planning know-how killed many from over-exhaustion and malnutrition, and increasing paranoia of the leaders resulted in scores more being executed for a number of arbitrary reasons, not least false confessions under extensive daily torture. The total number of dead is impossible to determine, but a conservative estimate is over 2 million from a population of less than 8 million. One in four Cambodians died at the hands of their countrymen over 3 years and 9 months before a Vietnamese blitzkrieg took Phnom Penh on January 7th, 1979.
Since then, Cambodia has attempted to rebuild its society. It has seen rapid economic growth, not least fuelled by tourism to the capital and to Siem Reap, the gateway to the Angkor temples, but these two bubbles do not fairly represent the country as a whole. The horrors of the past permeate the country, for example undiscovered minefields, but the Khmer's (who now constitute 90% of Cambodians) unbreakable spirit shines through via their friendliness, optimism and entrepreneurial spirit. A truly inspiring attitude to what, at first glance, seems an amazing place.
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