Tuk-tuk's

With dire infrastructure (not least in Cambodia), lower levels of disposable income, and a high population density in major cities such as Phnom Penh and Saigon, the favoured mode of transport is a motorbike. Not the big 250 cc bikes, but the 125cc ones which look like a scooter. In Cambodia, strap a rickshaw behind one and you have a tuk-tuk.


Tuk-tuks are the taxis of Cambodia, with four people being able to sit comfortably next to each other, 2 facing each way. Base rates are around one USD per person (the currency of Cambodia, the real, exchanges at 4000r to 1 USD, but ATM's give you dollars, and they are main currency), with a full-day hire costing around 15 USD. Passenger limits, times of day, and destinations are, of course, irrelevant to the driver, so if you want to fit 7 people into one tuk-tuk and take a 3 hour ride to a waterfall at 2 in the morning, they would happily oblige. The notable exception is at the temple complex of Angkor Wat, where the tourism has resulted in flat rates of 7 USD per person inside the complex. Haggling will get you a discount, but only if you offer future business to the drivers. Always arrange price up front, and always at at least half of the drivers starting quote. Expect to pay the amount agreed - they have no concept of 3 dollars for 2 hours = 1,5 dollars for 1 hour.

Tuk-tuk drivers are underground guides to Cambodia, and are sly, scamming, lazy and really friendly. After declining a drive, another guy drives up and, with a fat grin on his face, offers to drive me to my destination at half of what the previous guy was asking. They will happily wait for hours while you wander about your tourist attractions. Especially at Angkor, the colonies of  tuk-tuk drivers with their shirts open, basking in the morning sun, is not far off from a herd of seals. They often have deals cut with restaurants, hostels, and motorbike rentals, with them getting a share for bringing customers, but it is all part of the game, so you just go with it. Some will scam you, others appear more genuine, but at the end of the day they are out to make a profit.

Using them for inside information could be misleading. If they don't know something, they'll just bullshit about it, and everything is answered with "yes", no matter what. To be fair, they will hook you up with anything you need: wandering the streets invites constant sales pitches of drivers offering tuk-tuk rides, marijuana, cocaine and codeine, not necessarily in that order.

If alone, like I was for the final couple of days, tuk-tuks will cost a couple of dollars at least. Better then to take the cheaper option of hopping on the back of a motorbike. Especially in motorcycle-crazy Saigon, one's adrenaline takes a spike, but these guys have bike handling skills most professionals would kill for. Instead, if you are +6 foot like me, sit back and enjoy the buzz and scenery from staring over the helmet of your 5'4" driver as you cruise through metropolitan South East Asia.